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Messages - TTBadDog

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Classifieds / Re: 2022 SE 300 oem chain
« on: January 10, 2022, 08:35:00 AM »
Next time just buy a 120 link chain and add to your short one with a rivit style master iink.

You can quit chain slap down with proper adjustment. Also, insulate the slider with a pad or "glue" chain slider down top and bottom with a bead of silicone. This will change or reduce the noise so you can see if you are on the right track.

Sherco Tech / Re: fmf pipe fitment
« on: January 06, 2022, 05:59:03 AM »
Not having done it myself on the Sherco bu you could likely bend to fit. Not sure why you would want to, there are plenty of FMC Gnarly available for a 17. Slavens AOMC to name a few. Is your existing just too bashed up to fix? Get a new one and a good pipe cage. I expect to run my original pipe a LONG TIME.
Not really that heavy, I spry Muck Off on the pipe and most of the mud just slides off.

Sherco Tech / Re: fmf pipe fitment
« on: January 04, 2022, 01:25:06 PM »
I had questions on Carbon Fiber pipe protectors and ran into the same thing. I cannot answer your Q but when I called Hard Enduro Outfitters they had all the info. If you run into availability problems and there IS a slight bend and difference and not just supplier or brand I suspect you could tweak a Gnarly by placing in a vice or jig and tugging on it a bit. I have moved bent ones a fair bit back to straight with inserting a large socket into the goesinta end with a few feet of 1/2 drive extensions and tugging the correct direction.

Classifieds / Re: 2022 SE 300 oem chain
« on: January 02, 2022, 11:38:48 AM »
I'll take it. PM me for details. I can do PayPal or whatever.

Editing post:
Just counted my links, I have a 250 with 50 teeth so it is not long enough. I need a 114 link chain. I will check with a friend of mine at my club who just got a 300 and see if he wants it.

Sherco Tech / Re: 2021 KYB need to check oil level
« on: January 02, 2022, 11:24:08 AM »
I just removed the cap but did not remove damper rod springs and "stuff". Just took off cap and poured some out.

Sherco Tech / Re: 2021 KYB need to check oil level
« on: January 01, 2022, 09:37:21 AM »
I have taken forks off and dumped out a few CC of oil before.  I was considering doing same on my new 2022 as I have had good results on other forks running a few CC less or more than manual calls for. Just depends on what part of the stroke you are wanting to change. On one bike (09 200 XC with closed chamber forks) I actually had to go the other way. Raised oil level a bit and softened the clickers. Other bikes I have dropped the oil and stiffened the clickers. I had read somewhere that there is a possibility the 22's may have had an incorrect fork oil fill at delivery. I should check this anyway before indicting a performance characteristic. Either way I think a lighter oil is the way to go for slow speed work. Use at your own risk-
Kreft was fond of the KYB01 oils.

Sherco Tech / Re: Kyb sss swap into a 17
« on: January 01, 2022, 05:41:02 AM »
If you already have the KYB stuff I would think just set the sag and spring the forks for your weight. Some fork legs are longer than others so be sure to measure closely beforehand. I did the same on a KTM from one year to another and legs were 5mm different. Had I set the forks to 2nd line it would have been way off.

Have you considered just having a good suspension shop re-work them? I am not familiar enough with what you are starting with to know if they can be revalved to be sufficient.

Yes, 48,49,50 is terrain, riding style, and bodyweight thing. This along with mods dictate your choice. I have the 250 which came with 50T rear, presumably to give similar last breath chugging similar to the 300 which came with 48T. Just a guess on my part. I hope with the SC2 I can switch to a 48 or 49 to extend the pull in 1st OR just use second and a bit more clutching.

My terrain is very steep with varied traction, I weigh 160 after a bowl of ice cream and 2 beers so I don't need a lot of power, just good clutch skills!

Thanks for the feedback on the slave. I did read about your experience with the the Torqdrive. I was going to go that route but I see it would have been a mistake. I will be contacting Rekluse about the Honda plates. I want to get a spare clutch pack for my spares kit. I figure I could replace the stock as it is basically new and wear out the Honda plates. This would give me a back to back comparison so I know which way to go for next replacement. I suspect the Honda plates are going be less costly. I am hard on a clutch. I will use second whenever possible on climbs and just cluith may way out if I start running low on power/rpm.

I rode Christmas eve day and made a point to attempt some steep good traction climbs that do require first gear. I took them in second and made note of how far I could get before lugging to a stop. Repeated several times and then tried clutching up the rest of the way in second. Possible but very hard to do. When I instal the SC2 will repeat and report.

General Discussion / Re: 300 sef factory gasket problems
« on: December 24, 2021, 03:05:48 AM »
With your other issues ( just replied to other post) it seems this is perhaps a telltale that someone has disassembled this engine. Things normally do not leak especially from the factory. You seem to have multiple issues with this bike. I wonder if someone has taken the engine down and made an assembly or adjustment error that is causing multiple issues. A full teardown, inspection, and re-assembly per the book and not the way it came apart may be in order. Verify the entire fuel delivery system from vent hose to top of piston.

Sometimes it's easier to fix it than find it meaning instead of chasing each issue down on its own just shotgun the problem and start from a known good base.

Can you compare it to another of the same model? Could just be the nature of the beast. Ruling that out I would suspect an anomaly in ignition timing. Have you swapped out spark plug and or checked gap? Perhaps throw some octane boost at it just for grins?  BTW many octane boosters do nothing. Only the type containing MMT actually work. The guys on the car forums that heavily SC or Turbo cars like the Lucas or Torco. Lucas should be available at places like Advanced Auto and many chain parts stores.

Whatever it is, assuming it is not just how they are, would be something that could vary from production tolerance or programming errors. Had you had any feedback from others on the board? These are the type of things we need a forum for, tough to crack everything on your own without feedback.

General Discussion / Re: Tire Tube Thickness?
« on: December 24, 2021, 02:45:53 AM »
Recently swapped out rear tube for Tubliss setup. The as-installed rear tube was just a standard thickness tube, not Trojanesque or anything really really heavy.  Had you considered Tubliss at least for the rear?  Supposedly less weight than a thick and two rimlocks. Don't really care, the ease of repair and quick tire swaps make up for the slight difference. Front Tubliss is a toss up if needed or not. I run it just for ease of swapping and not having to carry a tube.

Good to see some useful feedback on mods. I am soon adding a SmartCarb for the temp, altitude and low rpm benefits. Will post results but it will be a bit as I am going to give my ACL a week to heal up a  bit, oops.  I added the Midwest lever, primarily for the ability to get a true 2 finger lever. I may have friend machine a stock lever down for me instead. The engememet zone seems too wide. It is very easy to slip it just a bit on a tough second gear climb when you should be in first. I prefer second for the smoother power delivery and ability to build speed without an upshift.

I have a 22 250 SE coming off years of 200's. With that said I expect to have to use the clutch some, giving up a bit of lugging on the 250 but have more over rev free spin up. I may add a RK Tec head to improve bottom and rev but looking for feedback first.

Everyone has their reasons for doing mods, as you said the bike really needed nothing but I like to "personalize". I suppose the STIC metering block could deliver some of the benefits at least on bottom that the SC2 does but for a little more money the whole sheebang can be bout wit the SC2. Resale on the SC2 would be higher than the STIC or I could sell the Keihin to recover a portion of the SC2 purchase. A fresh Keihin that has not even been dirty yet should bring a good price. I hope to improve the bottom just enough to perhaps move to a 48 or 49 rear to lengthen 1st gear. The 250's come with 13/50 not 13/48.

What was the reasoning behind the Rekluse slave? How does it differ from the stock setup and what benefits or operational difference is there? Is it lighter pull or more/less throw?

Sherco Tech / Re: 2022 Sherco 300 SE Factory - Hard Clutch Pull
« on: December 22, 2021, 03:38:27 AM »
I went with 3 KTM springs then added the Midwest lever. The Midwest lever uses the full travel of the lever so there is a lot of engagement zone. Once the MW lever was on I removed one of the KTM springs so I know have 2 KTM springs.

Any idea if the 3 spings is a contributor to slipping?  I figured it might be so I should be OK with 2 KTM springs. If you think about it the only time the springs can contribute to wear is when the clutch plates are going back to fully loaded by the springs or loaded by the springs. When the clutch is partially or fully engaged the basket is held in check by the hydraulics. If I am thinking correctly the 2 KTM springs should be OK and not cause any added slipage.

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